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18 Most Popular Grand Seiko Watches For Men At Every Price Point

“Sparkle with quality”

Ah, the land of the rising sun.

Grand Seiko is the Japanese born brand that has continued to make an indelible mark on Western and global horology.

Founded in 1960 by Kintaro Hattori, GS swiftly became a huge presence in the timekeeping world thanks to their first ever release, reaching a daily accuracy of +12/-3 seconds per day. As a result, this became the first watch in Japan to be compliant with the Standard of Excellence, the measuring tool used by the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres.

In 1967, they released the astonishing 44GS which became the highest accuracy of any manual wind 5 beat watch globally and soon went on to win every chronometer award in Japan. They even earned the best mechanical watches award at the Geneva Observatory competition in 1968.

Currently, GS keep their watches organised in 5 distinct collections;

Masterpiece
Evolution 9
Heritage
Sport
Elegance

Their models are based on core elements, namely beauty, ease of use and legibility.

The flair of the Heritage collection which demonstrates GS essentials to the Evolution line which boasts their pioneering next-gen developments make their watches as hot as a summer dip in your private villa.

Grand Seiko Shizukuishi Watch Studio

Opened in July 2022, the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi is devoted to the production of all GS’ mechanical pieces and Haute Horlogerie novelties.

This was an add on to the Shizukuishi Watch Studio which already specialised in high-end watches and manufacturing for Morioka Seiko Instruments.

The construction of the GS addition was completed to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Grand Seiko brand. Designed by Kengo Kuma, a legendary Japanese architect, the studio is built within vast legions of trees and it’s designed to boast the brand's history and legacy.

Nothing like good inspiration! Let’s put the brakes on for a tick.

With nearly as many models and iterations as the entire Speedmaster back catalogue, Chrono Hunter has made the tough decision to collate the most popular Grand Seiko watches at all price points. Whether seasoned collector or first time exposed to the brand, let’s not keep you horophiles in suspense any longer.

Let’s deep dive into the best Grand Seiko watches for men, covering design, movements and value. We are confident there’s a model, material or reference with your name all over it.

Start the clock!

1. Grand Seiko 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH345

Rosey-red shades against a steel case is an aesthetic that not many of the top luxury watch brands employ.

However, GS released the SBGH345 in 2024 with the explicit aim of jazzing up the styling around their legendary 44GS movement.

Louis Armstrong can keep his trumpet firmly in its case for now. This watch keeps things classic with the iconic movement, but instead goes for an outward design that gets the most ardent connoisseurs turning pink. Who needs a tourbillon when aesthetics can be so beautifully minimalist?

Measuring 40mm x 13.3mm thick, these watches are crafted out of Ever-Brilliant Steel. If you work with metal or know a little about your precious materials, you’ll know that this is a brother to 904L steel, the same alloy Rolex uses in their Oyster Steel timepieces. Oh yes, don’t forget their legendary Zaratsu polishing throughout!

Plunging depths of 100 metres, the 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH345 is fitted with sapphire crystal to ensure optimal legibility into the dial. Inspired by the classic Mt. Iwate pattern which takes its inspiration from the tops of the mountains around GS Shizukuishi Studio, the most striking element is of course the bright red accent.

The hour markers and hands are silver-toned and given a stunning finish. At 3 o’clock the hour marker is replaced with a date aperture which adds an extra level of depth and complexity.

Beneath the bright colours and exciting finishes, the Calibre 9S85 movement pumps away at 5Hz or 36,000VpH frequency, ensuring an accuracy of around +5/+3 seconds per day. The weekend-proof 55 hour power reserve is another excellent feature to these watches.

Strapped onto an Ever-Brilliant steel bracelet, we envisage you adorning this with a black polo or cream white suit shirt.

Diameter	40mm
Thickness	13.3mm
Colour	Red
Case Material	Steel
Lug to Lug	46.2mm
Power Reserve	55 hours

- You can buy a Grand Seiko 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH345 at retail for £6,500 (as of April 2024).

2. Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA497 - Pink Dial

2024 marks a huge year for Grand Seiko. Celebrating the anniversary of their GS Spring Drive release back in 2004, just one year later, the Snowflake was released which became the basis of all future models.

Therefore, the Snowflake has received rapturous applause thanks to this latest release..the Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA497 Pink Dial. No chronograph on the dial but a few complications which add a small level of complexity to the pieces.

With a limited edition run of 1,500 pieces, Grand Seiko have really pushed the boat out here in terms of its watchmaking to produce maybe the best Grand Seiko to date. Sized at 41mm with a thickness of 12.5mm, the watches are about average for a wrist and we would say, perfect for the everyday wearer.

Built out of high-intensity titanium, this is Grand Seiko’s play on the already very illustrious titanium material, noted for its lightweight and durable construction. This is then expertly finished with a Zaratsu finish which enhances the brushed allure of the models.

If you squint hard enough, the dial could be a direct brother of the Snowflake SBGA011 from 2005. Open your eyes wider for a second and this is a highly unique face that's wonderfully presented against a powder pink colour.

Inspired by the Hotaka mountains in Nagano Prefecture, this textured style boasts polished silver baton hour markers, pointed hands, a date aperture at 3 o’clock and a power reserve indicator between 7 and 8 o’ clock.

Visible through the sapphire caseback, the Snowflake watches are powered by the Calibre 9R65. This movement offers an exceptional accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month and a highly impressive 72 hour power reserve. Meanwhile, the movement is beautifully bevelled and striped which showcases their expert craftsmanship.

Connected to a high-intensity titanium bracelet, pair this Snowflake stunner with a black suit for that formal look or special occasion.

Diameter	41mm
Thickness	12.5mm
Colour	Pink
Case Material	Titanium
Lug to Lug	49mm
Power Reserve	72 hours

- You can buy a Grand Seiko SBGA497 at retail for £5,950 (as of April 2024).

3. Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305

The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 is a luxury sports rendition of the Spring Drive watch. Sized at 40.5mm x 14.7mm thick these steel watches are quite large and may not be optimal for that power suit in the office.

Featuring Zaratsu polishing, the watch features a screw down crown at 4 o’clock and an equally screw down caseback which allows the watches to enjoy 200 metres of water resistance.

Given a ceramic black bezel with a 24 hour scale, this links in with the extra GMT hand which allows the users to measure two time zones. This level of functionality and durability is perfect for a sporty watch, or one which someone could wear for London Fashion Week.

As this is GMT timepiece, chronograph functionality isn’t needed and it’s quite refreshing to see an open dial which pertains to this not just possibly being the best Grand Seiko, but a leading sports timepiece.

The dials are given a blood red shade which relates to the Hotaka mountain range in summer. Sure, it may not have the grooves or texture of other watches, but the sunray finish allows the applied markers to be clearly visible alongside the lume filled hands.

At 4 o’clock there is a date aperture and a power reserve between 8 and 9 o’clock. Along the flange is a two tone 24 hour display with the PM in the same red shade and a grey shade for the AM on the bottom half of the dial.

The watches are powered by the Calibre 9R66 movement which ensures around +/-15 seconds per month and a 72 hour power reserve. This is fixed onto a steel bracelet which would look fantastic with black chinos and blue T-shirt.

Diameter	40.5mm
Thickness	14.7mm
Colour	Red
Case Material	Steel
Lug to Lug	48.5mm
Power Reserve	72 hours

- You can buy a Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 at retail for £5,800 (as of April 2024).

4. Grand Seiko 62GS SBGH317

Watches can be hard to get.

A vintage Daytona with chronograph functionality, a John Mayer inspired Audemars Piguet or one of Jay-Z’s illustrious Patek Philippe’s like the reference 2499 are just a few tasty examples. What about a watch that is solely found within Japan’s Ginza, Tokyo? Step forward a new contender for the best Grand Seiko to date, the GS SBGH317.

Source - Mr Stateless

Sized at 40mm of steel, the watches are extremely elegant as they are finished with Zaratsu polishing throughout while the bezel is razor thin to promote the legibility of the dials. It may not have the Daytona chronograph functions, but it punches more in the direction of elegance and dressiness which is perfect for us!

The crown based at 3 o’clock is screwed down which has 100 metres of water resistance. The dial is given a fabulous light purple shade which features a sunray brushed finish, promoting the silvered applied hour markers and hands.

Interestingly, the dial is given a “Ginza” pattern which runs at an angle across the dial and is made up of slim strips that are split into smaller rectangles. But there’s no need to be a square. Inspired by the wintry streets of Ginza, the pattern imitates the tops of the buildings. Forget when in Rome…

Through the sapphire caseback, the eyes are caught instantaneously by the Calibre 9S85 movement. Capable of offering a 36,000VpH and an accuracy of -3/+5 seconds per day, there is a 55 hour power reserve which is more than enough to sweep through the canals of Venice or sip champagne on a bateau across the Seine.

Attached onto a 3-link steel bracelet, the watch is perfect for khaki trousers and a purple suit shirt.

Diameter	40mm
Thickness	12.9mm
Colour	Purple
Case Material	Steel
Lug to Lug	47mm
Power Reserve	55 hours

- Capped at 530 pieces, you can buy a Grand Seiko SBGH317 at retail for around £4,100 (as of April 2024).

5. Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW301

With more of a back story than Hadrian’s Wall, the Heritage line is Grand Seiko’s answer to a dress watch interpretation. Best Grand Seiko line? Maybe, but we are definitely seeing a front runner for the most fashionable collection in the market.

Of course, it would mean nothing if it didn’t have the brand's usual spin on it which, of course, the sumptuous SBGW301 has in spades!

Source - GS9 Club

The 37mm steel case diameter is kept in unison with the slender 11.7mm thickness. This is enhanced by their signature Zaratsu polishing which is typical of one of the best luxury watch brands of the moment. The circular shape is a perfect ode to the classic dress watch that was all the rage during the 1960s.

Everything is tapered, including the lugs and the bezel which is thoroughly polished like Pep Guardiola’s trophy cabinet. The sapphire caseback is screwed in alongside the crown which ensures a mediocre 30 metre watch resistance. But what about the face though?

One of the best Grand Seiko dials we have seen of recent, it is given a matte ivory shade which is a minimalist colour that goes with most other items of smart apparel. The hour markers and hands are diamond cut which ensures they are polished and visibly stand out against the dial. Anything like a tourbillon or chronograph would simply crowd this beauty.

The sapphire caseback exposes the Calibre 9S64 movement which runs at 4Hz and has a 3 day power reserve. That’s enough time for you to hop on the Eurostar and saunter to the South of France and back at your desk on Monday morning.

Thoroughly polished and complemented with stripes, the movement keeps in tandem with the striking case and dial. Fitted with a brown alligator leather strap, why not adorn this watch with a suede jacket or navy blue suit. But hold the suede shoes Elvis.

Diameter	37mm
Thickness	11.7mm
Colour	Ivory
Case Material	Steel
Lug to Lug	47mm
Power Reserve	3 Day

- You can buy a Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW301 at retail for £4,400 (as of April 2024).

6. Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS SBGW303

The 44GS is possibly the most emblematic statement in Grand Seiko’s portfolio. Kinda like what Hey Jude is to the Beatles. So is it worthy of praise? Time to find out.

Inspired by the initial 1967 release, the SBGW303 36.5mm steel watch is around 11.6mm thick. Oozing dress-watch appeal with complimentary Zaratsu polishing, this is a prime watch for the man who’s set on looking as fashionable as possible.

Given a screw-in caseback and crown, the watches can reach 100 metres of water resistance which is excellent for a piece fit for a fashionista or watchfluencer. Yes, apparently that is a thing for 2024.

Fitted with a sapphire crystal, the wearer has an unimpeded view of the fabulous olive green dial. If Popeye was to wear a timepiece, this would be it. It’s kept beautifully spacious by refusing to involve excess complications like a chronograph or tourbillon.

The dial is inspired by the tops of Mt Iwate during Autumn. Think leaves, foliage shedding and greenery and you’ll probably hit the nail on the head. This very fine texture has a sunray finish which allows the polished applied indices and faceted hands to clearly contrast against its green hue.

The solid caseback is fitted with the brand logo which is a nice touch, but means we can’t get a view into the components that make up the movement. Sorry open caseback fans. However, it still ticks most boxes as far as one of the best Grand Seiko watches is concerned.

Meanwhile, the calibre 9S64 movement offers a 28,800VpH and an accuracy of around +5/-3 seconds per day with a power reserve of around 72 hours. Fitted with a steel bracelet, we can see you adorning this with a black suit shirt or cream white suit if you are feeling more adventurous.

Diameter	36.5mm
Thickness	11.6mm
Colour	Green
Case Material	Steel
Lug to Lug	42.7mm
Power Reserve	72 hours

- Limited to 400 pieces, you can buy a Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS SBGW303 at retail for £5,500 (as of April 2024).

7. Grand Seiko SBGJ273 Yuka-Momiji

The SBGJ273 takes its dial inspiration a little differently from other models. In this case, it incorporates Japanese inspired floors. Yes, you heard that right!

This ain't Murder On The Dancefloor. Far from it. But will it be on your best Grand Seiko wishlist? This intriguing number comes in at 39.5mm, with a thickness of around 14mm.

Although it is rather chunky for such a compact diameter, Grand Seiko combats this by ensuring the lugs are chamfered, the bezel tapers downward and the case is finally finished with the classic Zaratsu polish.

The domed sapphire crystal ensures the user gets an optimal view of the dial from every conceivable position…and other people who want to gawp at your immense flex appeal. The GMT functionality is more than enough for any horophile. 3 subdial chronographs and skeletonised tourbillons simply won't do for this.

The dial takes its inspiration from the changing of the autumnal season in Japan. Interestingly, while the brand makes mention to the maple trees that are in plentiful supply, the colour is actually an ode to the lacquered wooden floors in Japanese buildings that reflect the leaves.

“Yuka Momiji” translates as “Floor Maples” which is a pretty accurate description of the gorgeous Dragon red dial.

Given a floorboard style vertical striped finish, the silver hour markers and hands are clearly distinguishable, alongside the extra gold GMT hand which reads AM and PM time alongside the 24 hour scale under the hour markers. There is a useful date aperture at 3 o’clock which is handy for the modern wearer on the move

Under the red hot dial and visible through the sapphire caseback is the Calibre 9S86 movement which has a sturdy 36,000VpH alongside a reliable 55 hour power reserve. Affixed to a steel bracelet, we recommend you wear this with a cream T-shirt or burgundy suit shirt.

Diameter	39.5mm
Thickness	14mm
Colour	Red
Case Material	Steel
Lug to Lug	46.9mm
Power Reserve	55 hours

- You can buy a Grand Seiko SBGJ273 Yuka-Momiji at retail for £6,600 (as of April 2024).

8. Grand Seiko Sports SBGJ275 GMT

Sports watches can cover a range of industries, including racing from TAG Heuer, polo Jaeger-LeCoultre and yachting via Tudor or Rolex. However, sports watches can be incredibly functional. This leads us to the fabulous SBGJ275 GMT.

The watch follows the typical sporty design including a 44.2mm diameter and a thickness of 14.8mm. Sizable? You bet. Verging on the Panerai Luminor territory, it’s designed to prioritise durability over dress like thinness.

Given a thorough Zaratsu polish and brushed elements, the GMT functionality appears through the 24 hour bezel which is given a two tone white and blue sapphire insert. Capable of reaching 200 metres of water resistance, the watch is purpose built for gents that could spend a weekend in Prague or two weeks in Puerto Rico.

The dial has a deep connection to Mt Iwate’s incredible height which is viewable from the legendary Grand Seiko Studio.

Fancy taking to the skies with a wrist worthy number? Peruse our guide to the best pilot watches.

A cloudy, light blue dial takes centre stage while on the flange, there is another 24 hour scale that exchanges the white colour at the bottom for light blue. Furthermore, the hour markers are steely and tinges of colour are found with the golden GS logo under 12 o’clock and the white and blue arrow-tipped GMT hand.

There is even a tilted date aperture at 4 o’clock that can be viewed with a quick flick of the wrist.

Viewable through the caseback and given a blue-tint titanium oscillating rotor, the watches are powered by the 9S86 calibre, offering a phenomenal 5Hz beat and a 55 hour power reserve.

Since it's locked onto a steel bracelet, we see you looking equally fly with this against powder blue jeans and a light green polo shirt.

Diameter	44.2mm
Thickness	14.8mm
Colour	Blue
Case Material	Steel
Lug to Lug	50.6mm
Power Reserve	55 hours

- Capped at 2000 pieces, you can buy a Grand Seiko Sports SBGJ275 GMT at retail for £7,250 (as of April 2024).

9. Grand Seiko Hotaka Peaks Spring Drive GMT SBGE295

As night follows day, Grand Seiko covers the seasons with their watches

However, everyone likes summer for its warmth and inevitable long, lazy BBQs. So Grand Seiko responded to the public's requests by releasing the gorgeous Hotaka Peaks Spring Drive GMT SBGE295.

Designed out of steel, the watches boast 200 metres of water resistance which is more than apt for the 44mm diameter case and 14.7mm thickness. The lugs slope downward to promote the dial further and make the watch more ergonomic on the wrist. The crown at 4 o’clock is recessed to attain the same slender purpose.

The rotatable bezel is made up of green and white to differentiate between AM and PM, plus the dual green and silver inner flange that features the same 24 hour scale. Why are there two I hear you cry? Well, it allows you to calculate three time zones at once. A triple whammy not seen since the Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Calendar QVE27222 with calibre 494 (well almost)

What an ideal piece for the investor who works with the China, U.S. and European markets! The dial has a textured green shade in line with the Hotaka mountain range that blooms with greenery over the summer. The silver hour markers are faceted and given a blot of lume at their base. This matches the slender hands which have LumiBrite inserts.

A power reserve indicator is present between 8 and 9 o’clock, alongside a date aperture that rests at 4 o’clock. Under the dial is the Spring Drive Calibre 9R66 movement which is actually the first 9R Spring Drive movement with a GMT complication from the brand.

Offering an astounding +/- 15 seconds per month, this highly precise movement is bolstered by a 72 hour power reserve. Linked to a steel bracelet, we recommend you adorn this with black jeans and leather jacket for a rebel look, or your comfiest trousers and jumper for those light-socialising events.

Diameter	44mm
Thickness	14.7mm
Colour	Green
Case Material	Steel
Lug to Lug	58.8mm
Power Reserve	3 day

- You can buy a Grand Seiko Hotaka Peaks Spring Drive GMT SBGE295 at retail for £5,750 (as of April 2024).

10. Grand Seiko Elegance Hana-Ikada SBGY026

With Grand Seiko’s portfolio full to the brim of high powered watches, The Hana-Ikada looks to add a new dimension of luxury through a precious metal infusion and with a dial concept that’s as soft as summer rain…

Designed out of 18K rose gold, the 38.5mm case is given a highly slender 10.2mm thickness and retains the famed Zaratsu finish throughout. Designed with a thin bezel that rounds off the barrel shaped case, the lugs taper in well and give this curvaceous stunner added charm.

Below the sapphire crystal is a dial that most horophiles would sell their entire collection for. Inspired by Hana-Ikada, this is essentially the period where cherry trees lose their petals and cover rivers to create a sea of pink.

GS have capably transported us to this picturesque scene with a textured soft pink dial with inconsistent strokes and tones to represent the various shades of the river. It’s like the Edgar Allen Poe of watches but with added panache.

Fitted with golden tooth shaped hour markers and hands, this works well, boosting its understated elegance that dress watch lovers are seeking to buy.

For beauty to be maintained throughout this piece, the engine room must be high-spec, offering the exact reason why GS opted for the 9R31 Spring Drive movement. It has a deviation of +/- 1 second per day and a 72 hour power reserve, the calibre is visible through the caseback and features grained and bevelled finishes.

This is linked to a vintage style brown leather strap which means it's perfect for the office in your sharp black suit, or for that high end dining soiree in your turtleneck.

Diameter	38.5mm
Thickness	10.2mm
Colour	Pink
Case Material	Rose Gold
Lug to Lug	43.7mm
Power Reserve	72 hours

- Capped at 100 pieces, you can buy a Grand Seiko Elegance Hana-Ikada SBGY026 at retail for £24,350 (as of April 2024).

11. Grand Seiko Diver SLGA023 Blue Ushio

Grand Seiko’s diving collection is more than just a piece to accompany you into the open waters.

This means that even though it can take on Drake’s Passage, it’s got that undeniable charm ensuring it becomes the quintessential everyday watch for many enthusiasts.

Measuring 43.8mm x 13.8mm thick, the high-intensity titanium case ensures you can throw yourself into everything life throws at you safe in the knowledge that this can take the knocks, bumps and bruises along the way, while being light enough to not become a nuisance.

Fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel, it has a blue ceramic insert that's fitted with a classic 60 minute diving scale. Fitted with a screw-down crown and caseback, you have up to 200 metres of water resistance which is enough to make a splash in the shower or while doing an array of water sports activities.

The dial is given an Ushio pattern which is a type of texture that imitates the flowing tides that surround Japan’s coastline. Furthermore, it allows the large baton and dot hour markers to be promoted, especially since they are dosed with LumiBrite alongside the chunky hands.

There is a power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock and a date aperture at 3 o’clock that’s useful for tracking the date and the juice still in your timepiece. This functionality is given by the 9RAF Spring Drive movement which yields a +/- 0.5 second per day deviation and a fabulous 120 hour power reserve. As Dinah Washington proclaimed, what a difference a day makes…or how about five

It's linked to a titanium bracelet and would suit your short sleeve polo shirt in a soft orange or in a rich green.

Diameter	43.8mm
Thickness	13.8mm
Colour	Blue
Case Material	Titanium
Lug to Lug	51.5mm
Power Reserve	120 hours

- You can buy a Grand Seiko Diver SLGA023 Blue Ushio at retail for £10,500 (as of April 2024).

12. Grand Seiko Masterpiece SBGZ009

Monet’s sunflowers and Rodin’s the Thinker. What springs to mind? Works of art you might think? Well, they don’t have a patch on our next contender for the best Grand Seiko watch.

The Masterpiece SBGZ009 is perhaps the most luxurious and desirable timepiece on this horological hitlist. Spoiler - You’re going to be hit with precious metals, hand finishing and absolutely astonishing craftsmanship!

Sized at 38.5mm of pure platinum, a luxury metal that is very rarely adopted in horology, this is enhanced further by being hand engraved to attain a tree like effect. You really have to hand it to the Japanese and their epic symbolism. With a 9.8mm thickness, this is very slight and a perfect addition to any men’s formal wardrobe.

The dial ties in beautifully with the case that evokes a white birch tree pattern. This is attained through soft markings that link to the white birch forests during winter, located in the Nagano Prefecture, close to the Shinshu Watch Studio in Shiojiri.

The applied faceted hour markers and hands are tapered and crafted out of 14K white gold. Underneath the dials is the Spring Drive Calibre 9R02 which offers an impressive 84 hour power reserve and a +/- 1 second deviation per day. Plenty of oomph if you need to strike that deal on an overseas business trip.

Fixed onto a black crocodile leather strap and connected via a 950 platinum strap, you can rock this piece with a green suit jacket or black polo shirt.

Diameter	38.5mm
Thickness	9.8mm
Colour	White
Case Material	Platinum
Lug to Lug	43.7mm
Power Reserve	84 hours

- Capped at 50 pieces, you can buy a Grand Seiko Masterpiece SBGZ009 at retail for £67,450 (as of April 2024).

13. Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGA019

To round this list off, let’s throw in a sports watch with a high quality design and a movement more impactful than Just Stop Oil.

Measuring 40mm x 11.8mm thick, the watches are crafted out of high-intensity titanium which is lighter and more durable than traditional steel watches. Given a thorough Zaratsu polish throughout, the watches are dapper yet retain their strength.

The dials are given a dark blue textured shade which imitates the rippling waves of Lake Suwa. The hour markers and hands have Zaratsu polishing as well which enhances their finish and there is a tidy date aperture at 3 o’clock.

Within the watches, the 9RA2 Spring Drive movement totals a 120 hour power reserve alongside a phenomenal +/- 0.5 second deviation per day. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is bevelled and given frosted plates while 100 metres water resistance comes as standard.

This is linked onto a high-intensity titanium bracelet which suits a navy blue suit or cream white suit shirt.

Diameter	40mm
Thickness	11.8mm
Colour	Blue
Case Material	Titanium
Lug to Lug	47.9mm
Power Reserve	120 hours

- You can buy a Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGA019 at retail for £9,400 (as of April 2024).

14. Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Birch Bark SLGW002 and SLGW003

The Evolution 9 is easily considered one of Grand Seiko’s most exciting ventures to date. Originally released back in 2022, the watches are epitomised by their inherent versatility and capability to be durable and potentially one of the ultimate dress watches from this brand.

SLGW002

Perhaps the SLW002 and SLGW003 from Watches and Wonders 2024 can become the new flagship models of a timeless collection!

Coming in at a very accessible and slimmer 38.6mm, the two watches are both perfect for wearing in the office. To compliment this old-school small case size, the timepieces boast a thickness of just 9.95mm which means they are virtually weightless on the wrist. Well, it’s no Omega Speedmaster that was the first to blast into space, but you get the point.

Meanwhile, the SLW003 is crafted out of Brilliant Hard Titanium. After all, this is both lighter and more durable than their steel counterparts. Furthermore, this alloy version provides a gorgeous lustre which will look the part with any three piece suit.

The alternative is the SLGW002 which is crafted out of rose gold. This is more luxurious than the titanium option, but will likely weigh more on the write. They both have the brand’s signature Zaratsu polishing which promotes a fabulous polished aesthetic. Be it luxury or an everyday timepiece, you guys have tough decisions!

Given a slim bezel, this circles around the case with consummate ease. Capable of reaching 30 metres of water resistance, the expert craftsmanship entitles these watches to look fabulous in all manner of situations.

Yet, what's the deal with the dials? This relates to the birch forests which can be spotted around the GS Studio Shizukuishi. The trees are noted for their white, ridged bark which is what Grand Seiko have taken their inspiration from.

Both dials feature the same white textured dial which feature inconsistent streaks and etches to mirror the bark as naturally as possible. For the titanium edition, the hour markers are silver and given a strip of luminescence through their centres. This is the same case for the hands which have the same lume centre.

For rose gold models, the hour markers are given a golden shade alongside the hands. They both use a blue seconds hand which clearly stands out from the dial's face. Inside the titanium and rose gold cases lies the Calibre 9SA4.

This movement utilises a Dual Impulse Escapement which means it can capably reach up to 36,00VpH. That’s 5Hz, precisely the same as the famed Zenith El Primero! Not enough? This is complemented with a robust 80 hour power reserve which shows their immense Hulk like power.

Diameter	38.6mm
Thickness	10mm
Colour	White
Case Material	SLGW003 - Titanium SLGW002 - Rose Gold
Lug to Lug	45mm
Power Reserve	80 hours

- As of April 2024, you can buy a Grand Seiko Evolution Birch Bark at retail for:

SLGW003 (Titanium) - £10,300
SLGW002 (Rose Gold) - £43,600

15. Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH021 “Genbi Valley”

If you’re feeling like you need to reconnect with Mother Narth, we recommend you quickly cancel any plans of yoga retreats and invest in something that will last far longer…

For Watches and Wonders 2024, we’re talking about the brand new Evolution 9 SLGH021 “Genbi Valley”. Measuring 40mm, the Ever-Brilliant steel case is both more durable and desirable than classic steel due to its beautiful finish. Need we mention the fabulous Zaratsu polish one more time?

Around 11.7mm thick, the models are capable of reaching around 100 metres water resistance. This demonstrates that they have some sporty capability…but not enough to be an out-and-out dive or racing inspired timepiece.

For the well-travelled gentlemen, the Genbi Valley may already be a place you are all too familiar with. Referencing the valley within close proximity of the Iwai river, it is situated near the GS Studio Shizukuishi. During most of the seasons, the watches yield fabulous turquoise waters and a vast range of flora and fauna that produces a rich green layer.

Therefore, the dial mirrors this by using the Japanese painting technique of Kirazuri. This textured aesthetic provides a glossy finish which could easily be a panoramic image of the famed river.

The hour markers utilise two batons and three for the 12 o’clock marker. This ensures maximum legibility, alongside the chunky sword shaped hands which have a sliver of luminescence through their centre. Keep an eye out for the functional date aperture based at 3 o’clock.

The brilliant 9SA5 calibre gives us a 5.18mm thickness. Revered for its incredible high frequency of 36,000 it became a first from a Japanese watchmaker.

The 80 hour power reserve and 5Hz frequency are fast out the block and ensure that you benefit from first rate timekeeping.

Diameter	40mm
Thickness	11.7mm
Colour	Green
Case Material	Steel
Lug to Lug	47mm
Power Reserve	80 hours

- Capped at 1,000 pieces, you can buy a Grand Seiko SLGH021 at retail for £9,750 as of April 2024.

16. Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275 “Morning Glow of Hotaka Peaks”

Grand Seiko’s usage of a Spring Drive movement with chronograph functionality is only very recent. First seen on the SBGC253, which was spotted in 2023, the SBGC275 at Watches and Wonders 2024 aims to pick up the horological baton and cement the combination into horological history.

At 44.5mm, these may be veering towards the Panerai side of things which may not be a top option for horophiles looking to buy a Grand Seiko that can fit under a shirt cuff. This is the case with the very thick 16.8mm height which is for us a tad chunky. Once we get into the details, you’ll understand why it’s got such weight.

Reaching 200 metres of water resistance like many Tudor models, the High Intensity Titanium is very sporty, a perfect fit for the adventurer or outdoorsmen! Giving Zaratsu polishing and beautiful brushing, they are fitted with a large ridged crown and two prominent pushers on either side.

Framing the double domed sapphire crystal, there is a 24 hour scale bezel which is given a monochromatic black and white aesthetic. There’s no fancy two-tone Cerachrom insert like the Rolex GMT-Master II. This bezel works in conjunction with the extra GMT hour hand to read multiple time zones at once.

The dial’s shade is inspired by the term “Morgenrot” which is defined as a word used by mountain climbers to describe the morning glow. Well, we couldn't have described it better ourselves.

The fabulous red shade is made up of a variety of brushed strokes which vary in texture and depth, including light or darker shades. This unique pattern works well with the unorthodox positioning of the running seconds and chronograph subdials which sit between 1 and 2 o’clock, 4 and 5 o’clock as well as 9 o’clock. They have a striking sunburst finish which clearly stands out against the dial.

At 3 o’clock is a very handy date aperture alongside a power reserve indicator which sits at 7 o’clock. Surrounding the edge of the dial are thick tapered hour markers with strong blocks of luminescence, alongside the hands which are either given a slate grey shade or a lighter brushed hour hand.

Within the timepieces sits the Calibre 9R96 which has a weekend-proof 72 hour power reserve alongside a daily accuracy of around +/- 5 seconds per day.

Diameter	44.5mm
Thickness	16.8mm
Colour	Red
Case Material	Titanium
Lug to Lug	50mm
Power Reserve	72 hours

- Limited to 700 pieces, you can buy a Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275 at retail for £12,000 as of April 2024.

17. Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion”

Our next best Grand Seiko contender comes roaring out of the traps.

Bob Marley may have talked about Iron, Lion, Zion. But do you want to wear something that makes you the fiercest flexer on the block? No, this isn’t some seedy perfume pitch… This is the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion”.

Straight from the get-go, the watches are high-powered and built to last in all conditions. Crafted into a 44.5mm titanium case, the models are around 14.3mm thick which is quite bulky, but the design is intentional. It prioritises durability over dainty elegance, explaining the 200 metres of water resistance.

This is epitomised through the construction of the case too. Gone are the gently sloping lugs and soft chamfered edges. Instead, the lugs are joined together with a bar of polished titanium, while all the edges are sharply machined to bolster the watches strength. The Zaratsu polish is a beautiful Japanese aesthetic which lends to the heritage of the models.

But why titanium? It’s the top material for those wanting the classic luxury sports watch, but want to buy something that's lighter and more luxurious like white gold. The perfect inbetween for those looking for a usable piece for everyday wear, whether it's the office or the racetrack.

Surrounding the sapphire crystal is the solid black bezel. Fitted with a Lumibrite 24 hour scale, this is a useful piece for the man on the go, as it works in conjunction with the extra red GMT hour hand. Capable of showing multiple time zones, the watches are multifunctional and, like Arnold Schwarzennegger, ready for action.

The “Tokyo Lion” title is inspired by the ivory dial which imitates a lion's mane. The dial is made up of many brushed strokes which has a textured feel, creating the effect that the dial is perpetually evolving and melding together.

The hour markers are given a steely design and coated with Lumibrite while the hands are just as thick…aside from the exceptionally thin second hand. At 3 o’clock is a functional date aperture and a readable power reserve indicator between 7 and 9 o’clock.

Within the titanium husk is the legendary Spring Drive movement, taking 27 years alone to produce, which is incredibly accurate. We’re talking about +/-1 seconds per day accuracy alongside a 3 day power reserve. All with GMT functionality? A real banger of a timepiece!

Diameter	44.5mm
Thickness	14.9mm
Colour	Ivory
Case Material	Titanium
Lug to Lug	50mm
Power Reserve	72 hours

- You can buy a Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” at retail for £10,100 as of April 2024.

18. Grand Seiko GMT Sports SBGJ277 “Snowy Valley”

This time, we turn to Ike and Tina Turner. What do we mean exactly? The 1966 smash hit River Deep Mountain High to be precise, that leads us nicely on to the GMT Sports SBGJ277 “Snowy Valley”

Grand Seiko sports watches are designed for optimal durability as opposed to flashy, overly expensive luxury. However, this aptly named timepiece sounds more tantalising than rugged.

At 44.2mm x 14.4mm thick, the GMT Sports SBGJ277 is given a screw-in caseback alongside an unorthodox placed crown at 4 o’clock.

These watches enjoy up to 200 metres of water resistance, sufficient for a jaunt on a jet ski if you have the time. This is very impressive and is actually dive certified which entitles you to a few laps of your private pool without risk of it being affected.

Around the dual-curve sapphire crystal is a 24 hour scale bezel which is split into two white and green bezel shades. This is to differentiate between the AM and PM time zones. This is essentially as it allows for easy reading of the AM and PM times, alongside its operation with an extra GMT hand on the dial.

The dial is a spectacular display of Grand Seiko’s craftsmanship. Influenced by the high summer months in the Japanese mountains, the timepieces are named “Sekkei” which basically translates as “Snow Valley”. Essentially, the green peaks emerge from the snow which results in a majestic two tone shade.

For the dial, it’s given a frosted, snowflake style dial which is attained through soft brushed aesthetics. The green elements come in the form of the bezel, and the flange which is made up of an extra 24 hour scale which allows multiple time zones to be read seamlessly.

The faceted, three dimensional hour markers are coated in Lumibrite which offers unparalleled luminescence. Furthermore, this works with the steely hands which also have a centre of Lumibrite. Behind the snow white dial is the 9S86 calibre which offers a fabulous 36,000VpH, an accuracy of around +5/-3 seconds per day and a decent power reserve of 55 hours.

Diameter	44.2mm
Thickness	14.4mm
Colour	White
Case Material	Steel
Lug to Lug	50.6mm
Power Reserve	55 hours

- You can buy a Grand Seiko Sports SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” at retail for £6,500 as of April 2024.

Conclusion

Time’s up again.

From entry-level to something a little more ostentatious, we’ve run through the best Grand Seiko watches in the horological catalogue. Read through carefully, (including our very considerate set of specs we’ve provided) and decide which one is your favourite. They all have great reasons to buy one!

We’ve hopefully given you a little more insight into the fabulous details behind the most popular Grand Seiko watches you should add to your collection. Be it the sporty attractiveness of The SBGJ275 GMT or the opulent luxury of the Hana-Ikada SBGY026, this Japanese outfit has ample room for exploring the most attractive and desired watches around.

And they are becoming a strong alternative to Rolex in the early five figure range.

Swiftly rising out of the Far East and becoming a formidable presence in the West, they have quickly become a sizable watch brand meaning they are likely to retain their everlong styles among the public.

Designed with elegance and built to last, you can guarantee that when you buy a Grand Seiko, you are placing your money in a brand full of style, character and that revered favourite; the Spring Drive movement.

So where should you buy a Grand Seiko quickly with maximum safety, quick turnaround, a one of a kind platform and exceptional reviews?

Time to find out…

Buying a new, pre-owned or second hand luxury watch has never been simpler when using Chrono Hunter’s unique online platform. Combining a fantastic level of service alongside our exclusive network of highly regarded retailers, we ensure a transparent transaction and the best prices when you buy a watch or top prices paid if you want to sell a watch.

Why not save money the smart way on your next purchase or kick back and enjoy the most competitive offers thanks to our dedicated app, available on both Apple and Android devices.

Our carefully curated selection of luxury watch retailers, no-obligation valuations, multiple offers, unmatched brand expertise and best possible prices means there has never been a better time to contact us.

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Image Credits (Unless Otherwise Stated) - Grand Seiko

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